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Magazines : Breakaway Summer 2010
auscreen auscreen Torquay Read this story by Torquay waverider SHAUN VILJOEN and you'll be glad you are visiting in summer as he describes the chill -- and thrill -- of early morning winter surf SURF COAST BEACHES ASHRIEKING buzz rips me from my sleep. I lunge blindly for the alarm clock, hoping to bludgeon it to death. Success. I'm slipping back into my slumber when the noise explodes again. Bloody snooze button. I shuffle to the kitchen, eyes glued shut. I mash the wall hoping to connect with a light switch. Click. The light pan-fries my retinas, instantly blinding me. I quickly mash the wall again. Feeling my way around the bench, I manage to brew a coffee. Outside the trees are swaying in the first light, the icy northwesterly bending their branches. Offshore. There's swell out there, I can almost feel it in my belly. Either that or it's the chilli I had last night. Turns out it's the chilli. I'minthecarandoff.AsIpullupinthecarparka set wraps itself around the point; long, clean lines, the deep grey-green of the swells a stark contrast to the burnt ochre of the ragged cliffs. Heart pumping, I step into the arctic morning and don my still-damp wetsuit. It's freezing, the kind of cold that sends your dangly bits scrambling back up into your torso. Down on the sand, there's not a seagull in sight. I imagine them standing around a fire in a 44-gallon drum rubbing their wings together and stamping their webbed feet. My first duckdive is torture, like a rusty spike driven into my forehead or listening to Britney Spears. I try to tighten my grip on my board but I've got all the dexterity of a walrus in oven mitts trying to pick up a five-cent piece. Further out an old timer catches a beautiful wave, wide grin planted in his grey stubble as he races across the face. Finally, I'm out the back. I exchange a nod with another early morning waverider and glance back at the shore. The first rays pick out the wind-twisted trees and shrubs atop the red cliffs. Movement on the horizon. A set. A big one. The swells stand tall as they draw near. A surfer next to me paddles into the first one, letting out a little whoop as he takes off. My turn. I paddle into the wave and feel it pick me up and drive me forward. I drop down the face, leaving my stomach behind. I turn off the bottom, eyeing the long wall ahead of me and go roaring down the line. Some things are worth getting up early for. Torquay has several beaches ideal for families - try Fishermans Beach and Cosy Corner for gentle swims - as well as areas more suited to those who want to experience some waves -- try Torquay back beach and Jan Juc beach. Torquay beaches have toilets, car parking and grassy foreshores, with barbecues and shelters at Cosy Corner. There's steep steps access to Jan Juc. geelongadvertiser.com.au 6 I geelongadvertiser.com.au
Breakaway Autumn 2011